AOL Auto Repair Blog http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog AOL Auto Repair Blog http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/media/feedlogo.gif AOL Auto Repair Blog http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog en-us Copyright 2009 Weblogs, Inc. The contents of this feed are available for non-commercial use only. Blogsmith http://www.blogsmith.com/My Car Is Overheating: What Should I Do?http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/03/12/my-car-is-overheating-what-should-i-do/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/03/12/my-car-is-overheating-what-should-i-do/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/03/12/my-car-is-overheating-what-should-i-do/#commentsDear Tom,

My 2001 Olds Intrigue started overheating and all the cheap fixes I've tried have not worked. I installed a new temperature gauge, flushed the radiator, replaced the sending unit, and checked for air lock (it even failed the "sniffer" test for a cracked head). I was told that other people have had the same problem with this make and year. Were there any recalls? What else do you think I should check?

Barb from NM

Barb,

I am not sure of what you mean by a "sniffer test." Perhaps a four-gas analyzer? This procedure will only reveal if there are excessive tailpipe emissions (not if there is water in the exhaust). Try having a "block test" performed. During this test, the technician will draw a vial of coolant from the radiator and then mix it with a special chemical to see if it turns color. A positive test indicates that there is exhaust gas in the cooling system caused by a blown head gasket. Another way to track down a blown head gasket is to perform a cylinder leak-down test. Finally, a compression test will also reveal if there's a leaking head gasket. One last thought ... these vehicles have had intake manifold issues. Have the intake checked for a leak because this condition would also result in a coolant leak. There are no recalls for coolant leaks; recalls are only issued for safety-related problems. I wish you success.

Tom

 

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]]>2001 Oldsmobile2001Oldsmobileoverheating problemsOverheatingProblemsTom Torbjornsen2009-03-12T09:16:00+00:00My Transmission Fluid is Brown: Should I Change It?http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/03/06/my-transmission-fluid-is-brown-should-i-change-it/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/03/06/my-transmission-fluid-is-brown-should-i-change-it/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/03/06/my-transmission-fluid-is-brown-should-i-change-it/#commentsDear Tom,

I own a 2000 Volkswagen Passat 2.2 Turbo, with 140,000 miles. The transmission fluid is dark brown, but it has no burnt odor or visible particles. Can I change it? I was told that changing the fluid on a high mileage transmission might cause it to fail. Is this true, and if so, why?

Ed from Santa Barbara, CA
Ed,
Dark brown trans fluid is an indicator that the fluid has been burnt. This is not good. I recommend that you change the filter and refill the pan, rather than perform a complete flush of the system. When a transmission overheats, the glue on the back of the internal clutches crystallizes. When a complete flush is performed, the high detergency property of the new fluid removes the hardened glue from the back of the clutches and renders the trans useless. I have seen this time after time. The filter change and pan refill will not affect the transmission in this way. Success to you.
Tom

 

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]]>2002 Volkswagen Passat2002VolkswagenPassatbrown transmission fluidBrownTransmissionFluidtransmission fluidTransmissionFluidTom Torbjornsen2009-03-06T09:13:00+00:00Am I wearing out my clutch?http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/03/02/am-i-wearing-out-my-clutch/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/03/02/am-i-wearing-out-my-clutch/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/03/02/am-i-wearing-out-my-clutch/#commentsTom,

I own a beautiful 2006 Mustang GT with a manual transmission and hydraulic clutch system. I have been told that, with a cable clutch system, it is not good to leave the clutch engaged when stopped because it causes excess wear on the clutch system. Is this true? Does it apply to hydraulic clutches as well? Also, do you have any other advice that might save wear-and-tear on the clutch and transmission?

Jeannette from Boise, ID
Jeannette,

This is a fallacy! Clutches, throw-out bearings, and clutch plates are designed to be engaged and disengaged over their lifetimes (usually about 60 - 90K miles, depending on how you drive). Go ahead and hold your clutch pedal down at the stoplight any time you feel like it! As for how to make the clutch last as long as possible? Don't ride the clutch when taking off from a stop! Make sure it is completely engaged (foot OFF the pedal) before accelerating from a dead stop. Enjoy your beautiful Mustang.

Tom

 

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]]>clutchTom Torbjornsen2009-03-02T08:23:00+00:00Various Factor Affect Oil Change Intervalshttp://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/02/15/various-factor-affect-oil-change-intervals/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/02/15/various-factor-affect-oil-change-intervals/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2009/02/15/various-factor-affect-oil-change-intervals/#commentsDear Tom,

I own a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a hemi engine. I run it on medium grade gasoline. How often should I change the oil? Also, how much should I expect to pay for an oil change for a hemi engine? Thank you.

Patty from NJ



Patty,

The engine in your truck should be a 5.7-liter Hemi. If it is, the crankcase capacity is 7.0 quarts; add a high quality oil filter and it should cost you about $60 (if you use synthetic oil, add about $30). For regular oil the recommended interval will be 3-5K miles. For synthetic it will be 5-7K miles. Some folks go higher depending on the brand of oil.

Tom


Dear Tom,

I own a 2008 Ford cargo van that's used for deliveries. I drive about 100 miles per day and do a lot of stop and go. I use Mobil 1 oil and change it every 2,000 miles. Is this oil change interval too aggressive? Could it go longer? I depend on this van and can't afford any problems. Thank you.

Sal from Staten Island, NY

Sal,

Every 2,000 miles might be a bit excessive when using Mobil 1 because it's a high-grade synthetic oil. I suggest you extend the interval to 5,000 miles. Make sure you change the oil filter every oil change

Tom

 

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]]>Tom Torbjornsen2009-02-15T09:16:00+00:00Brake Squeal After New Brakeshttp://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/09/08/brake-squeal-after-new-brakes/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/09/08/brake-squeal-after-new-brakes/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/09/08/brake-squeal-after-new-brakes/#commentsFiled under:

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Malibu LS. I recently had the front and rear rotors and pads replaced, as well as the rear calipers. About 750 miles later the brakes started squealing (very pronounced). The rotors cost $46-52 each; the pads cost $50 each; and the calipers were $79 each. I brought the car back to shop once, and they 'cleaned the brakes up.' Brakes were quiet for only two days, and started squealing again. Any solutions?
- Lincoln, NE

Answer:
Brake squeal is the result of a high-pitched vibration of the brake pads. Either the pad anti-rattle clips are worn, or were not re-installed, or the pad insulator shims were not re-installed at the time of the brake job. Get it back into the shop and have these checked. Once you stop the vibration, you stop the squeal!!
TomDear Tom,
I own a 2006 Malibu LS. I recently had the front and rear rotors and pads replaced, as well as the rear calipers. About 750 miles later the brakes started squealing (very pronounced). The rotors cost $46-52 each; the pads cost $50 each; and the calipers were $79 each. I brought the car back to shop once, and they 'cleaned the brakes up.' Brakes were quiet for only two days, and started squealing again. Any solutions?
- Lincoln, NE

Answer:
Brake squeal is the result of a high-pitched vibration of the brake pads. Either the pad anti-rattle clips are worn, or were not re-installed, or the pad insulator shims were not re-installed at the time of the brake job. Get it back into the shop and have these checked. Once you stop the vibration, you stop the squeal!!
Tom

 

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]]>brakesbrakingcar brakesCarBrakesChris2008-09-08T12:20:00+00:00Regular or Mid-Grade Gas?http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/09/08/regular-or-mid-grade-gas/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/09/08/regular-or-mid-grade-gas/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/09/08/regular-or-mid-grade-gas/#commentsFiled under: ,

Tom,
I have a 2005 Hyundai and the book says to use 87octane middle-grade gas. What would happen if I use regular grade?
-Santa Monica, CA

Answer:
Over time a condition called "pre-ignition" or "engine knock" will occur. With this condition, when the fuel enters the engine it pre-ignites, which causes constant hammering of the tops of the pistons, cylinder head face, and valves. Eventually, major engine damage becomes evident and major repair becomes necessary. Your choice? Cheap gas or engine replacement. Don't be 'penny wise and pound foolish.'Tom,
I have a 2005 Hyundai and the book says to use 87octane middle-grade gas. What would happen if I use regular grade?
-Santa Monica, CA

Answer:
Over time a condition called "pre-ignition" or "engine knock" will occur. With this condition, when the fuel enters the engine it pre-ignites, which causes constant hammering of the tops of the pistons, cylinder head face, and valves. Eventually, major engine damage becomes evident and major repair becomes necessary. Your choice? Cheap gas or engine replacement. Don't be 'penny wise and pound foolish.'

 

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]]>fuel economyFuelEconomygasgasolineChris2008-09-08T12:05:00+00:00Synthetic Oil Vs. Non-Synthetic Oilhttp://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/09/08/synthetic-oil-vs-non-synthetic-oil/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/09/08/synthetic-oil-vs-non-synthetic-oil/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/09/08/synthetic-oil-vs-non-synthetic-oil/#commentsFiled under: ,

Dear Tom,
Could you please explain the difference between synthetic oil and regular oil for a car? Is it safe to use synthetic oil? I drive a 2006 Mazda 6. Thank you.
-Monticello, VA

Answer:
Synthetic oil (though not impervious to) is highly resistant to viscosity breakdown from chemical contamination, heat, and friction inside the internal combustion engine. Viscosity breakdown is the loss of ability of the oil to lubricate an engine. This toughness is due to the chemical fortification of the base stock oil at formulation. Non-synthetic oil tends to break down more easily because it lacks this chemical fortification.Synthetic oil also tends to flow easier at sub zero temperatures. At low temps, non-synthetic oil becomes heavy and thus doesn't flow very well. This condition causes dry startup and internal engine wear over time. Finally, because of the robust nature of synthetic oil, you can go longer between oil changes, usually double the recommended drain interval (3,000 miles). Overall, synthetic oil offers several benefits compared 'regular' oil.

 

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]]>auto maintenanceAutoMaintenancecar oil changeCarOilChangeoilChris2008-09-08T11:59:00+00:00And the Magic Number is ... $4.00 a Gallonhttp://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/08/27/and-the-magic-number-is-4-00-a-gallon/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/08/27/and-the-magic-number-is-4-00-a-gallon/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/08/27/and-the-magic-number-is-4-00-a-gallon/#comments
For years I have been asking people on my radio show the following question: "At what price per gallon of gasoline would you change the type of vehicle you drive?" And for years people have told me that, instead of trading in their SUVs and pickups, they would alter their lifestyle and budgets to accommodate driving their vehicles of choice. Well, this year there was a major shift in that response when gas hit $4.00 per gallon.

As a contributor for AOL Autos, I asked that they conduct a poll of AOL readers. Here is the poll as it appeared on AOL Autos the week of July 14th, 2008.

Over eighty thousand people responded in just two days. Although 81% of respondents said that high gas prices have changed how or what they drive, only 36% are actively seeking to buy a more fuel-efficient car. That means more people are changing how they drive rather than what they drive. This is probably due to the volatile economic climate. Consumers are holding on tightly to their dollars in anticipating that the worst is yet to come.

When gas prices hit $4.00 a gallon, SUV and pickup inventories started to rise across the car lots in the United States. So what are the automakers doing in response to this dilemma? Chrysler responded quickly with gas incentives by offering gas cards that locked in the price at $2.99 per gallon to customers who purchased a vehicle. Suzuki guaranteed free gas for the summer of 2008; Jeep offered a locked price of $2.99 per gallon on regular gas and diesel fuel (for their diesel powered Jeeps).

Furthermore, carmakers are making major changes in the way they do business. Ford has decided to trash plans for a big V8 engine for pickups and large rear wheel drive cars. Amid rumors of bankruptcy along with dwindling truck sales, GM is aggressively restructuring. They may be dropping the Hummer brand and decreasing truck production, as well as increasing hybrid production. Rick Wagoner, GM CEO, was quoted at a press conference recently: "GM is conducting a strategic view of the brand (Hummer) and is considering all options."

Well, it looks like "The customer is king." We the people are dictating to automakers exactly what we want through our wallets. Today's car buyers want more fuel-efficient vehicles. However, according to the poll at AOL Autos, more people are changing their driving habits rather than buying a new more efficient car. So car companies are scrambling at breakneck speed to make necessary changes to recapture the customer's dollar in order to survive.

Even Toyota's light truck and SUV inventories are stacking up on lots! This is unheard of! In response, Toyota is putting light trucks and SUVs on sale and retooling factories to build more fuel-efficient cars. They announced an increase in production of hybrids to one million annually within the next decade (double that of today's stats). Last week Toyota announced that it plans to modify its Highlander factory to produce the new hybrid model. Other automakers are also shutting down truck and SUV plants and redesigning them to accommodate building more fuel-efficient vehicles as well as hybrids.

Diesel power is staged to increase dramatically as well. I base this observation on the recent development of low sulfur diesel fuel and special diesel exhaust systems designed to dramatically reduce particulate matter (the black soot from diesel exhaust). Already very popular in Europe, it is predicted that there will be a major increase in diesel-powered vehicles in this country. Presently, oil companies are positioning themselves for increased profits in anticipation of this surge to diesel fuel. I plan to keep my eye on this one as it develops... you can count on that!

'Til next time...Keep Rollin'

For answers to your car questions and more automotive info click here:

www.americascarshow.com

 

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]]>fuelfuel economyFuelEconomygas pricesGasPricesChris2008-08-27T13:46:00+00:00Bad Oxygen Sensor on Camarohttp://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/30/bad-oxygen-sensor-on-camaro/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/30/bad-oxygen-sensor-on-camaro/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/30/bad-oxygen-sensor-on-camaro/#commentsFiled under: ,

Q: I own a 2001 Z28 Camaro and in June of last year I had the same problem -- the check engine light came on and I had to replace an oxygen sensor. My check engine light is on again so I took the car to the dealer and they told me it was the oxygen sensor and air pump, which cost $814.00 to replace. With 67,000 miles is it worth it to fix again? I didn't have this problem the past six years, now its every year.

A: The air pump keeps fresh air flowing to the exhaust system, this is critical to the catalytic converters because without this fresh airflow, the "cats" will overheat, resulting in internal clogging and burning of catalyst baffles. Plus, when you leave a faulty O2 sensor in the engine, it causes fuel delivery malfunction. Finally, if your state has emissions laws, you won't pass state emissions inspection. I recommend you get it fixed.

 

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]]>auto repairAutoRepairemissionsemissions reductionsEmissionsReductionsoxygen sensorOxygenSensorChris2008-05-30T12:12:00+00:00They Won't Change My Transmission Fluidhttp://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/30/they-wont-change-my-transmission-fluid/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/30/they-wont-change-my-transmission-fluid/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/30/they-wont-change-my-transmission-fluid/#commentsFiled under:

Q: I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 133,000 miles on it. The local Toyota dealer says that it's way overdue for a transmission flush. But when I go to local quick lube shops they all refuse to do it because of the mileage on the vehicle. The transmission operates perfectly now, but the transmission fluid is not red, its a pretty dark brown. Is it wise to have a dealer do the work and risk having trouble after the job or just keep going and hope for the best?

A: The answer to this question is a tough one to arrive at. On high mileage transmissions, fluid change is a crap shoot because one has no way of knowing the extent of internal wear. When the old fluid gets burnt and worn out, the transmission experiences excessive internal wear, this causes the unit to heat up, heat causes the glue on the clutches to become brittle and to crystallize. When new fluid is introduced into the unit the high detergent aspect of the new fluid scrubs the old glue away from the back of the clutches rendering the transmission useless. Take it to the dealer, have them drop the pan to try to get a handle on the extent of internal wear then proceed from there.

 

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]]>auto maintenanceauto repairauto repair tipsauto repairsAutoMaintenanceAutoRepairAutoRepairsAutoRepairTipstransmissionChris2008-05-30T11:52:00+00:00Costly Air Conditioning Repairhttp://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/30/costly-air-conditioning-repair/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/30/costly-air-conditioning-repair/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/30/costly-air-conditioning-repair/#commentsFiled under:

Q: I have a 1993 Toyota Camry and my air -conditioning has gone on the brink I was told by my mechanic that it would cost around $2500 to repair it. I am a 70 year old woman who seems to get ripped off every time I need car repair work done. Does this figure seem about right? Looking forward to your reply. Thanks!

A: I recommend getting a second opinion, I have seen A/C repair run as high as that but you gave me no indication of what is being suggested as a repair. What are they doing for that money? Compressor replacement? Condenser replacement? Dryer? Evaporator core? Retro fit? You see there are many aspects to air conditioning repair, get a second opinion from a shop of high quality. If you're not sure where to find a shop, call AAA and ask for a shop that specializes in HVAC repairs.

 

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]]>airconditioningcar maintenanceCarMaintenanceChris2008-05-30T11:44:00+00:00Battery Drainhttp://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/28/battery-drain/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/28/battery-drain/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/05/28/battery-drain/#commentsFiled under:

Q: "I replaced my car battery in my 2002 Saturn L300 in September 2007. I again replaced my car battery in April 2008. The technician told me that something is draining my battery. He told me that I will again need another new battery within 6 months if I don't find and repair the cause. I had the alternator checked and this is not the problem. Do you have any idea what is the cause of the drain on my battery."

A: Find a shop that specializes in electrical repair and have a parasitic electrical draw test performed. This is where the tech hooks a voltmeter to the battery and monitors voltage while eliminating one circuit at a time until the draw is found. Draws can happen from a faulty electrical component, shorted switch, or grounded hot wire. repairs of this nature are charged on a time and material basis. Good luck.

 

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]]>car batterycar maintenanceCarBatteryCarMaintenanceChris2008-05-28T11:14:00+00:00Air Bag Light is On, Should I Be Worried?http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/03/31/air-bag-light-is-on-should-i-be-worried/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/03/31/air-bag-light-is-on-should-i-be-worried/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/03/31/air-bag-light-is-on-should-i-be-worried/#commentsFiled under:

A question from one of our readers asks:

Q: "I have a '98 Z3 BMW. While city driving the air bag light came on. I ran the diagnostic and no codes came up. Is it dangerous to continue driving with light on? Would air bags deploy if necessary? The vehicle has never been in an accident to deploy the air bags. Is it absolutely necessary to take it an authorized BMW dealer for service or can it be checked out, somehow, at home? I have several mechanic connections and would prefer their expertise."

A: When the airbag is lit, the system is inactive. Should you get in a front end crash, the airbag/s will not deploy leaving you unprotected. I would call the dealer and ask them to run your vehicle's VIN through their system. It could be that there was a recall for the safety restraint system on your car in which case the repair will be free of charge to you. If there are no recalls and no warranty coverage for safety restraint systems, (sometimes there is extended coverage on such systems) then take it to a qualified shop if you're more comfortable with that. Just make sure before you go to the shop that they have the scan tool and software to tap into the safety restraint module for diagnostics. Usually a lit airbag can be attributed to faulty wiring, crash sensor behind the front bumper, bad connection between the airbag and lower part of the steering column, or a faulty airbag module. A qualified shop should be able to track this down for you. If you're not sure where to go to find such a shop, call AAA and ask them for a AAA Certified Repair Facility in your area that works on late model BMW's.

Another reader had a similar problem and inquired:

Q: "The airbag light came on in my 1999 Subaru Impreza a couple months ago, should this be something to worry about, Someone said I shouldn't worry about it. Then someone said maybe one of my air bags is disconnected. Is this common and should I take it to the dealer and pay a huge price to see what's up?"

A: Yes, be concerned. When the airbag light illuminates, it means that the safety restraint system is inoperative and the airbag will not deploy in the event of a collision. Common causes of this malady are: broken power wore to the airbag, faulty crash sensor or related wiring, broken connection in the steering wheel. A scan of the safety restraint computer will give the tech a direction to go with diagnostics. This may be covered under the safety restraint warranty, ask your dealer.

 

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]]>air bagsAirBagsChris2008-03-31T15:43:00+00:00How do ABS Brakes Actually Work?http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/03/31/how-do-abs-brakes-actually-work/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/03/31/how-do-abs-brakes-actually-work/http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair-blog/2008/03/31/how-do-abs-brakes-actually-work/#commentsFiled under:

ABS (Anti-Lock Braking System) uses wheel speed sensors, a hydraulic control unit, and a computerized electronic control module, which is the "brain" of the system. When the brake pedal is applied, the electronic control module monitors the speed of the wheels through the wheel speed sensors. If the control module detects that one or more wheels are about to lock up, the module signals the hydraulic unit to control hydraulic pressure to that wheel or wheels. This varying of pressure is much like "pumping" the brake; only with the ABS system, the wheel that is locking up (causing a potential loss of control) is the only one being controlled, while the rest of the wheels are free to roll. This maximizes vehicle steerability.

 

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]]>ABScar brakescar repairCarBrakesChris2008-03-31T15:37:00+00:00