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    by: Tom Torbjornsen | AOL Autos
     

    Have you ever tried to actually read your owner’s manual, especially the part about maintenance and service? As if this kind of stuff isn’t confusing enough, there are always two schedules listed, one for a vehicle driven under “normal” conditions and another for “severe.” But what exactly does this mean? I have yet to see an automaker that actually explains, in plain English, what these terms mean.

    This article is the third in a series of four that addresses the differences between severe and normal service recommendations. We’ve already covered engine oil and other fluids, so now we’re moving on to the brakes and suspension components.

    Service Schedules For Brakes And Suspension

    Let’s start by trying to understand the differences between normal and severe. The severe schedule, as it is commonly described in your owner’s manual, applies if any of the following are true:

    • You make frequent short trips, say to the store and back, or to work and back, with a total distance under 10 miles.

    • You drive your vehicle heavily loaded or use it to tow.

    • You often drive in dusty, dirty environments like construction sites or off road.

    • You drive mostly in stop-and-go situations like in city traffic or on a delivery route.

    Sometimes the effects of severe duty are obvious, such as how much more rapidly your brakes will wear when hauling heavy loads or constantly slowing and stopping when driving in heavy traffic. However, when you’re dealing with brakes and suspension, there are other severe driving conditions that may not be as apparent, and aren’t necessarily covered in the above list.

    For example, let’s say that you live in the Snowbelt. Winter can be hard enough on the undercarriage of your vehicle, but when springtime hits, potholes the size of the Sea of Tranquility can open up. The stress is so great that control arm bushings, steering linkages, and the likes can actually be ripped from the undercarriage of a vehicle -- I have this firsthand on more than one occasion. Also, sidewalls of tires can blow out when going through the sharp edges of a pothole. Add into the mix the effects of salts (used in most areas to de-ice roadways) on the suspension parts and its easy to see that plenty of people should consider themselves candidates for the severe schedule.

    When you consider the effect poorly maintained roadways have on a car’s suspension, I would say that most drivers should follow the severe maintenance schedule for their vehicle. The problem is, that with respect to brakes, tires, and steering and suspension, the maintenance schedules just suggest inspecting these parts and rotating the tires at every oil change -- there is no actual maintenance suggested for these items aside from tire rotations. Is this enough? Probably not.

    Brakes

    Brakes should be inspected at every oil change and the friction materials -- either brake shoe linings for drum brakes or pads for disc brakes -- should be replaced when there is 20 percent of the material remaining. This is a proactive approach to brake service to avoid having to replace the disc brake rotors or brake drums prematurely, which is far more expensive.

    Yet many people continue to drive their vehicles until they experience a brake squeal or worse. If you can hear a grinding noise when applying the brakes, you have likely quadrupled the cost of your repair by waiting so long.

    A correctly performed brake job will also include the resurfacing of the drums and/or rotors -- provided they haven’t been worn out -- so that the new friction materials break-in properly.

    If you drive in dusty and dirty environments, for safety’s sake you should have the brakes cleaned and adjusted semi-annually to guarantee their correct operation, even if they don’t need replacing. Dirt and grime tends to impede the self-adjusters and caliper operation, causing premature wear and failure.

    Tires

    Most tire manufacturers suggest rotating the tires every six months or six thousand miles, whichever comes first. I subscribe to the tire manufacturer’s schedule because it covers all service applications, taking into consideration both the time interval and the mileage interval.

    However, I add one additional step: Have the tires rebalanced every time you rotate them. This extra step ensures that the tire spins “true” as it rolls down the road. Tires are balanced based on the mass of rubber that is present at the time of their installation or rebalance. As the tire rolls down the road, rubber wears off, and the tire is no longer “balanced.” Therefore, it is imperative that you have the tires rebalanced when they are rotated in order to maintain a smooth action when rolling. An imbalanced tire bounces and “tramps” its way down the road, resulting in a chopped or cupped tread wear pattern.

    Finally, keep a close eye on tire condition. When impact breaks are evident in a sidewall, replace the tire. Other factors that render a tire unsafe are dry rot (caused by road oils that dry out rubber), shifted belts, a gash in the tread area, or cracked bead areas.

    Steering and Suspension Systems

    Worn tires can also result from worn steering and suspension parts. Steering and suspension systems suffer when subject to heavy hauling and towing or operation on rough roads or in other bad conditions. Steering and suspension systems are built with ball-and-socket joints and bushings made of rubber, neoprene, or some other synthetic product. Thus, they are subject to environmental elements, road jostle, and other forms of stress. When these bushings and joints become sloppy from wear, the alignment goes out. If you are driving on rough roads, or working the vehicle hard in some other way, the wheel alignment angles will migrate out quite quickly.

    Because wheels are knocked out of alignment when steering and suspension parts wear out, I strongly recommend that you check the wheel alignment once per year. There are two benefits from this practice. The first is just to correct alignment issues, which will keep your tires from wearing prematurely. But the second is that the tech will conduct a through inspection of the steering and suspension before aligning the vehicle, because worn parts make it impossible to properly align a vehicle to factory specs. Thus, by having an alignment check every year you kill two birds with one stone.

    While few people are willing to spend the money to replace worn suspension components like shocks and struts, let alone bushings, these parts can compromise the ability of the car to maintain traction on the road, which can impact braking and other accident avoidance measures. Keeping your car’s suspension in a reasonable state of repair is necessity if you care at all about safety.

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    Discuss
    1 - 15 of 15 Comments
    Vla223 Jan 02, 2011 3:12 PM
    I just had bushings replaced on my 2000 Nissan Sentra. I'd never heard of bushings before but trusted the tech and gave the 'okay.' After reading this article, I'm glad that I had it done, although it cost a lot. My car has 148,500 miles on it and I hope it'll last 200,000+ miles. My car gets heavy use due to daily commutes to/from work and field work. I put about 360 miles a month on my car. I'm a divorced female, trying to learn a little about cars so I don't look like a ditzy woman at the repair shop or be taken economic advantage of. At my next oil change, I'll tell them to check my brake pads and to replace them if 20%, or less of the material remains. QUESTION: should the drums/rotors be resurfaced at that time, too? - assuming they aren't worn out?
    Report This
    Dartis33 Jan 01, 2011 6:11 PM
    i make and deliver fully assembled storage sheds on a trailer, pulled by a g m pickup truck my brakes only last fifty thousand miles. when i replace the pads i also install new rotors, it costs as much to turn down the old ones as it does to buy new ones
    Report This
    wrkozysr412 Dec 31, 2010 12:25 PM
    i live in two locations, FL n PA. The PA car isnot used in the winter for 3, 1/2 months . When i try to use it the brakes vibrate n i must have te rotors worked on . Any suggestions. Is there an oil spay i can put on?
    Report This
    longhornjpn Dec 31, 2010 11:43 AM
    Brakes, suspension and tires will last much longer if you drive smoothly, don't speed up to slow down and don't run over everything in the road. Tires rotate every 8 to 10 thousand miles. Alignment is only needed when your car pulls to the left or right and if you experience uneven tire wear. Many mechanics recommend shorter maintenance intervals in order to make more money off of their customers. I agree with the 20% rule on brakes because the pad become harder and start to dig into the rotors. Oil changes can easily go from 4 to 5 thousand miles for regular oil and 5 to 7 thousand miles for synthetic oil. Antifreeze will last for several years in a car unlike the old days when cast iron engines had an excessive amounts of casting sand in the engine block that would prematurely clog radiators and heater cores.
    Report This
    Hdlee9936 Dec 30, 2010 5:58 PM
    I think Patrigav1 should move to Japan or China. Probably a resident of California which explains hate for America. needs to learn how to spell.
    Report This
    karelvvv Dec 30, 2010 5:00 AM
    I drive a 21 year old VW Golf, after 20 years it failed it's MOT for shocks (original since 1989), spend $ 400 and I had a new car. Maintenance keeps your car rolling.
    Report This
    Patrigav1 Dec 30, 2010 2:00 AM
    OK BLA BLA BLA SORRY FOLKS ,BUT AMERICAN ENGINEERS , AND I DO MEAN AMERICAN ENGINEERS, ARE THE MOST STUPID PEOPLE ON EARTH. WHY HAVE THE JAPANEESE BEEN SO FAR AHEAD OF, US FOR SO LONG, IN TERMS OF QUALITY AND RELIABILITY ??? I'LL NEVER BY A BUICK FORD OR GM PRODUCT. I HAVE NO FAITH IN AMERICAN ENGINEERING, IT SUCKS/ ESPECIALLY YOU YOUNG ******* ENGINNERS WHO LISTEN TO NICKLEBACK. CREED PEARL JAM NIRVANA ETC, THATS WHY THIS COUNTRY SUCKS!!!!!!
    Report This
    Patrigav1 Dec 30, 2010 1:41 AM
    hungry? EAT YOUR IMPORT
    Report This
    Patrigav1 Dec 30, 2010 1:40 AM
    motovation profit and greed
    Report This
    Popi450 Dec 28, 2010 6:50 AM
    in the brake section you fail to make the point that many people ride the brake pedal while driving
    Report This
    ythytjytdhdty Dec 26, 2010 2:21 AM
    ----------------------------- hello welcome to our website ** http://www.cn2bizz.com ** Wholesale all kinds of world brand shoes,jeans,t-shirts,bikini,beach pants,handbags,wallets,sunglasses,belt,caps,watches etc.. welcom to -- http://www.cn2bizz.com -----
    Report This
    kurtinfiniti Dec 08, 2010 4:26 PM
    tr3parts: Lets see you GM last as long as my Nissan.....get a life
    Report This
    gbceltic34 Oct 22, 2010 9:12 PM
    ummmm your brake pads and rotors where manufactured in china and japan. This is a fact tr3parts. Im a A.S.E. master tech 17 years and counting. nothing on your G.M. was manufactured in the U.S. it was assembled here or Canada.
    Report This
    tr3parts Oct 18, 2010 11:13 PM
    70,000 miles (normal, not all highway) on a larger Silverado (extended cab with 8' bed) work truck and still on the original GM pads (front and back). And they look so good they will probably make 100,000 miles. This includes hauling and towing a fair amount too. Beat that with your Jap crap!!!
    Report This
    armym14 Oct 18, 2010 6:43 PM
    i live in colorado. to save on brake&rotor wear the rule of thumb is to go down the hill in the same gear it would to go up same hill. i see a lot of flatlanders here rideing the brakes al the way down the hill. andi can smell their brakes cooking so gear down and save your brakes. old hill runner
    Report This
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